Author Topic: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.  (Read 79291 times)

Offline Big Tone

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Posted here for verification and additional comments initially.

This is how I replaced the rear beam bushes, there is a guide which involves removal of the rear beam but not one without.

Please read first and ensure that you are CONFIDENT that you can complete the job before starting, as there is no going back once the bush inners are out.

I and Golfgti.co.uk take no responsibility if you c*ck this up, this is how I did it and it worked for me.

You will need

Car jack x1
Small jack/bottle jack x1 (could be done with one i suppose, just used to lower/support the beam.)
Axle stands x2
Wheel removal tools
Socket set
Pliers
Chisel(s)
Hammer (Large) ha ha
Pad/hacksaw suitable for sawing out the bush sleeve (If required)
Drill with 10mm bit (used to drill out the rubber and remove the aluminium inner.) Not essential but recommended.
Files (Various)
10mm stud bar, 1x nylock nut, 2x standard nuts and various washers, penny washers etc. (To get the new bushes in)
Something to "pull against" when pressing new bushes in -  I used the top section from a set of hydraulic pullers and two small bits of 1" angle iron - THESE WERE ESSENTIAL TO ACHIEVE THE CORRECT POSITION BUT ANYTHING SOLID ENOUGH TO PACK OUT THE "PULLING HEAD" WILL SUFFICE.
And of course....replacement bushes - I used the VRS ones.

Right,

1. With the front wheels "choc'd" jack the rear of the car and support using axle stands.

2. Remove rear wheels.

3. Support rear beam with two small jacks.

4. Remove bolts holding beam in place, I think 17mm off the top of my head, these are the bolts which run through the bushes.

5. Disconnect the CLIPS holding the hand/brake lines, This will give you that little bit extra play to get the new bushes in.
***DO NOT DISCONNECT BRAKE LINES***

6. Using the two small jacks, lower the rear beam to allow access to the bushes - ***DO NOT KINK THE BRAKELINES*



This is a picture of the old bushes, they are in a right state!




7. Using the drill (and probably the hammer and chisel aswell) drill/tw*t out the rubber/aluminium until the bush "inner" can be pulled out.
    Leaving you with this;

This is the sleeve that needs chiseling out.

Once that is out you should be left with this;


8. Now remove the metal sleeve with a hammer, chisel and saw if required.

9. File up ready to accept the new bush.

10. Position the new bush using the clamping arrangement. (This is hard to explain but hopefully pics will make it easier)

***ENSURE THE CORRECT ORIENTATION - NOTCHES IN VRS BUSH SHOULD LINE UP WITH THE EDGE OF THE REAR BEAM ARM***





11. Tighten stud bar nuts to bring bush into position.



12. Repeat steps 7-11 for the other side.



13. Using small jacks, raise rear beam into position and replace securing bolts.



14. Replace hand/brake line clips.

15. Replace wheels.

16. Remove axle stands and lower car.

17. Remove choc's from front wheels.

18. Enjoy, I found that this tightened everthing up altogether as well as not clanging over bottletops anymore!



These are the removed bush components, or what is left of them!

Any comments, amendments or suggestions welcome.

****FOR SALE**** 11 Months MOT, 5 Months Tax - 1.8T AUM, Stage 1 map, Lowered 35mm on Jamex Springs, Smoothed Airbox, Pipercross Panel, Forge 007P, N249 Bypass, Silicon Breather Hoses,Silicon Vac Hoses, Top Mounts & Bushes All Round, Catch Can Install,  New Discs and Pads All Round, A Big Sub, A SH*TLOAD of Polishing and A Thirst For V-POWER! Profile/msg for info!

Offline carlitto7

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.
« Reply #1 on: 05 September 2011, 10:10 »
Excellent write up Tone i wish i had seen this when i done mine.

Offline Big Tone

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.
« Reply #2 on: 05 September 2011, 10:57 »
Excellent write up Tone i wish i had seen this when i done mine.

Nice one, when was that?

****FOR SALE**** 11 Months MOT, 5 Months Tax - 1.8T AUM, Stage 1 map, Lowered 35mm on Jamex Springs, Smoothed Airbox, Pipercross Panel, Forge 007P, N249 Bypass, Silicon Breather Hoses,Silicon Vac Hoses, Top Mounts & Bushes All Round, Catch Can Install,  New Discs and Pads All Round, A Big Sub, A SH*TLOAD of Polishing and A Thirst For V-POWER! Profile/msg for info!

Offline shady_character19

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.
« Reply #3 on: 05 September 2011, 20:07 »
great guide ,will be doing mine soon with super pro ,did you torque the bolts up once the car was lowered back down ? or whilst on the axle stands

Offline Big Tone

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.
« Reply #4 on: 05 September 2011, 21:24 »
great guide ,will be doing mine soon with super pro ,did you torque the bolts up once the car was lowered back down ? or whilst on the axle stands

Whilst the car was up.

****FOR SALE**** 11 Months MOT, 5 Months Tax - 1.8T AUM, Stage 1 map, Lowered 35mm on Jamex Springs, Smoothed Airbox, Pipercross Panel, Forge 007P, N249 Bypass, Silicon Breather Hoses,Silicon Vac Hoses, Top Mounts & Bushes All Round, Catch Can Install,  New Discs and Pads All Round, A Big Sub, A SH*TLOAD of Polishing and A Thirst For V-POWER! Profile/msg for info!

jockgti

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.
« Reply #5 on: 05 December 2011, 18:27 »
whats the difference in the vrs bushes to standard golf ones? are powerflex bushes good/bad ? on a golf with 135k on the clock this definitely worth doing?

Offline SI74

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Re: *HOW TO* - Replace rear beam bushes without removing rear beam.
« Reply #6 on: 07 December 2011, 11:38 »
^^^ yes because they start to fail at 60'000 miles.

Offline Big Tone

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^^^ yes because they start to fail at 60'000 miles.

Mine were fcuked WELL before that, car had only done 30k in 9 years mind! Lol

****FOR SALE**** 11 Months MOT, 5 Months Tax - 1.8T AUM, Stage 1 map, Lowered 35mm on Jamex Springs, Smoothed Airbox, Pipercross Panel, Forge 007P, N249 Bypass, Silicon Breather Hoses,Silicon Vac Hoses, Top Mounts & Bushes All Round, Catch Can Install,  New Discs and Pads All Round, A Big Sub, A SH*TLOAD of Polishing and A Thirst For V-POWER! Profile/msg for info!

Offline km

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How long does this take to do? Can get it done for £80. Reasonable?

Edit: guide seems en easy job? Pretty sure it won't cost that much
« Last Edit: 14 January 2012, 18:54 by km »

Offline Wazzzer

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pay the £80 and walk away mate lol


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