Yet another Mk2 door speaker question!

[Heyho]

Thanks for all the input on my previous thread, I promise I have just  one more question!   Would it be advisable to open up the door cavity to the rear of speaker (13cm comps), thus increasing the enclosure - or would the driver prefer just the volume in the pocket?  I won't have a sub, at least for the time being, but will be amping the front speakers.  I will be beefing up the pockets and deadening the doors.

I'm still yet to decide on the comps - it'll be Alpine SXS-1357's, Pioneer TS-E136C's or Infinity Reference 5010cs.  I've seen some "In-phase" comps in a local shop for £70 - but not really seen them elsewhere.  I don't really want to go much over £100ish including deadening.


Cheers guys.

[Uruk Hai]

I could be wrong but I think the window goes down by the back of the speaker when opened so you mite not be able to do that much to improve the way it sounds

[Heyho]

I won't be sinking the speaker into the door - just opening up the door trim to allow the door cavity to be used  as the enclosure - hopefully this will improve the bass.

[Godzilla]

Interesting question mate. I would have though opening the door card caivity to allow more bass would = less bass due to the size of the door. Im sure the volume in the door itself would be enough to run a sub so a 13cm would be lost.....to much air. The standard housing without cutting to let the speaker have more capacity should be ok. Keeping it closed means the 13 has its only little box enclosure, i know its small but should keep the mid/bass tight. I have dyno'd the inside of my housing to make it sound better. Will get some pics up for you later to show what i have done. I will also speak to my mate who owns a car audio shop and find out what he thinks about letting more air in by cutting the back of the door card as i never really thought of it till you put this post up!!

I would stick with Alpine speakers mate. Ive found Alpine to give the most bass from a 13 and also quality. Infinity are also very good but found them slightly harsh on high notes.

[Godzilla]

Pic of my speaker housing with dynomatt. Its covered on the top part aswell!




Also go around the top and sides of the hosing on the outside with super glue, very finely. This will ensure its air tight. Here is a pic of mine with glue. If its done finely you wont see it as shown on mine. It works very well due to keeping it tight againt the door card and air tight.

[Heyho]

Thanks for sorting out those pics - very helpful.

I'll follow your advice and leave the doortrims intact to start with. 

For my sins, I work for a BMW dealership - which means I also have to deal with those bloody awful minis - what I did notice today whilst sorting out a door rattle, is that they utilise a 13cm bass/mid driver mounted in a pod at the bottom of the door - which is open at the rear to the door cavity - it is also obvious that they have made the effort to ensure the door is airtight - this particular car did have the "Harmon Kardon" upgrade - and sounded very good and very bassy!!

As I said, I'm going to leave the doorcards to start with - then maybe try cutting through - if I bugger things up, I can always re-seal them!

[Heyho]

Right - speakers ordered, and should arrive Monday

Dropped in at my local ice showroom after work today, and picked up 12 sq ft of R-blox extreme for £45 - seemed pretty resononable as I won't now have to fork out for postage - was tempted to go the cheap route - e-dead is available on ebay at £49 + postage (£6) for 30sq ft, only from what I've read it's just re-branded foil backed flashing, but I may be wrong.

My next step will be to deaden the standard door pods and surrounding area, but relating to my original question, if the speaker won't be utilising the door cavity, is it as important to deaden the door skins?  I intend to deaden the rear of the door trim behind the speaker and sandwich some dense foam between the door and the trim.

Sorry for all the questions, but when I tackle a new task - I like to do it properly!!

[Godzilla]

The more sound deadening you can use mate the better!! You will find that deadening the inside of your doors will keep the volume of your speakers high whilst driving as your deadening will stop any volume from escaping!! If you turn your stereo up whilst parked and listen to how loud it is then drive off keeping your stereo at the same volume you will find the volume drains. Sound deadening eliminates that and will keep it nice and loud and clear.
If i had the money i would Dynomatt my entire Golf to eliminate any road noise! Im doing my boot next. I dont have a sub but i hardly ever have my parcel shelf in as my 2 German Shepherds are normally in there!! Trouble is i can hear the exhaust and road noise from the boot so a sheet of dyno under my boot carpet should solve that....i hope!!

[Heyho]

I've now now got my door cards off, and have set about sealing and deadening them.  I see what you mean about the superglue, but how did you fill the big gap at the top of the pod (can be felt when sticking fingers in door pocket)?

I've made up a wooden stuffer which I intend to screw to the side of the pocket and seal all around with butyl cord and tape.  I'll stick some pictures up tomorrow so you can see what I mean - nobody seems to have mentioned this area before - but there is definitely a big gap on mine!